Shea Butter Soap

I’m running low on soap!

I never thought it would happen, but I’ve been giving it away and using it up at such a rate that my old batches are almost gone. It’s time to re-up.

I while ago I bought 3 pounds of shea butter online. It arrived on my doorstep in a nondescript plastic bag, squished together into a big loaf. I may have done an underhanded butter deal.

I cut slices off of it, just like with bread, until I reached the weight I wanted.

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Until now I’ve been following recipes in my soap book, but I’ve more or less run out of recipes in it that I can make easily. A lot of them call for palm oil, which I have a vague sense of being even worse for the environment than the things I normally buy, so I’m making an effort to avoid it.

How’s that for activism?

I’d read that you could substitute other oils for palm as long as you reworked the amount of lye needed. Each oil has a different saponification level, which means it needs a different amount of lye to be made into soap. Change your oils but not your lye, and you may get a soap that’s too basic or too greasy.

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I’d been told to run my new oil amounts through a lye calculator to get a palm-free version of the recipe I wanted to use. But it occurred to me that if I had all the tools to rework a recipe, I could just as easily make my own. Since I had all this shea butter, I thought I’d make a 100% shea recipe. Some words of caution online said that all-shea doesn’t make much of a lather, and that a little bit of castor oil couldn’t go amiss. I’d always wondered what that castor oil was for in my past recipes – apparently it’s bubbles!

I went to the Brambleberry Soap Making Supplies Lye Calculator and entered in 33 ounces of shea butter (to equal about the amount of oil that’s fit in my slow cooker in the past) and 1 ounce of castor oil. I said I wanted a 5% superfatting level (this is extra oil that isn’t converted by the lye, making for a smoother, oilier soap).

The results I got in ounces were kind of rough, so I converted them to grams to get a finer measurement. This gave me 117.4 g of lye and 318 g of water. I weighed everything out, melted my oils, mixed my water and lye, and slapped it all together with my immersion blender.

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After a few minutes with the immersion blender, the soap started to trace and I conducted an experiment. I always check to see if my soap is neutral by adding a couple drops of a chemical called Phenolphthalein. Supposedly it stays clear if it comes into contact with a neutral substance, but will turn bright purple if it touches something basic. With every batch I’ve waited until I think the soap is done, dropped a few drops of this stuff, seen that it’s clear, and rubbed it all over my body without a second thought.

I had never, however, seen how it reacted to something that I knew to be basic. For all I knew I had a broken bottle.

It turns out that my bottle works just fine. I’d say pink is an understatement.

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I let the soap cook for two hours, beating it back when it bubbled up like this. It still had some pink to it at this point.

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I liked how the pink looked and wanted to do something more with color. I shook some purple pigment out into a dish – my plan was to mix it with a little bit of cured soap, then work it back into the bigger batch for a swirled effect.

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This plant worked great until I tried to implement it. The amount of soap I tried to mix was way too small and hardened against the dish almost immediately. I scraped as much as I could back into the full batch, then dumped some more pigment straight into that. I stirred it around a little and hoped for the best.

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I glopped it all into a silicone loaf pan and let it sit to cool. After a few hours I turned it out of the pan and sliced it into bars. All things considered I think the pigment came out well – just enough purple to make it interesting.

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I left the slow cooker to soak overnight to make cleaning easier, and the next morning I made a discovery. All that extra soap caked onto the sides can’t go down the drain (apparently it’s a clogging nightmare) so I scooped it out with my hand. I was planning on throwing it away, but before long I found myself with a big handful of the stuff – at least another bar’s worth. I squeezed it into a ball and saved it. It’s awfully wet, but I’m leaving it to dry to see what happens… though I’ll be very surprised if anything “happens” apart from it going from a wet ball of soap to a dry ball of soap.

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But sometimes you have to inject a little suspense into your soap blog.

 

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5 thoughts on “Shea Butter Soap

  1. Pingback: Lemon and Raw Lye Soap | Liz Baessler

  2. Omg! What an adventure! Ok, couple of things…when using your soap calculator, it helps to work in percentages. You generally want 10% castor oil unless you’re making shampoo bars (or your cold process and have extra cure time to play with) in which case you can go as high as 20%. But even 5% will make a huge difference in the numbers for lather if you pay attention to those when you look. Second, do you always hot process? I’ve found it’s easier to play with color and things like swirls and layers by doing most of mine cold process, and if I work with a 40% lye strength solution the bars only take two weeks or so to cure so it’s the same cure time as hot process. Finally, yeah, it’s a “rule” that you shouldn’t use more than 40% of one oil or butter because you need your ratios to be balanced and that’s hard to do with one oil or butter. Shea butter and it’s high percentage of unsaponifiable molecules would definitely make me nervous, and I would think that even as a hot process soap, it would be softer (because of that high percent of unsaponified molecules). Now, coconut oil and lard/tallow are the exceptions to that rule… 100% Coconut oil makes great things at different superfat levels, and 100% animal fat is great, inexpensive, laundry soap, imo.

    Great job altogether! I look forward to your future posts! I make soap and beauty products and jam and try to sell enough to keep making more! Nice to meet you!

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    • Nice to meet you, too! I’m still very much new to the soap game – I’ve made I think seven batches since January. I do almost all hot process simply because I like the instant gratification. I didn’t realize that you could do a shorter curing time with less lye – how does that affect the final soap?

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      • It’s not less lye, I phrased that wrong. Usually your lye water solution is somewhere between 25-30% lye, and the rest is water. If you change the values in soap calc so that you say you want to use a 40% lye concentration, you’ll be working with a stronger lye water solution, but there will be less extra water to need to evaporate out in the end. However, your soap is likely to trace more quickly so it’s a good idea to soap at room temperature-that’s when everything is quite literally at room temperature, your melted oils, your lye solution, etc.- and have any additives and colorants ready to go if you’re doing swirls and layers because you’re working against the clock to do it before everything traces too thick.

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